Hey everyone at South Coast. Sorry it has been a while. Been busy finishing up school. I am finally done with school forever! Like most surfers I have always dreamed about shaping my own board and like most surfers, I never got around to doing it. That was until a few months ago. My last quarter of school I enrolled in a surfboard shaping class. Yes you heard correct, Cal Poly has a surfboard shaping class. I was hesitant at first, but I knew I would have fun.
I had gone to the Sacred Craft in Del Mar honoring Carl Ekstrom. After attending Sacred Craft, I knew I wanted to shape some sort of asymmetrical fish. The theory behind the asymmetrical surfboard justmakes sense to me. Our bodies are not perfectly symmetrical, our balance is not symmetrical, and the way we stand on a surfboard is not symmetrical. So why do our boards have to be symmetrical? We can apply more pressure on our toe side rail than on our heel side, because of the way our bodies are built. We can push harder and have better balance with the balls of our feet than with our heel. It makes perfect sense to shorten your heel side rail and add more curve to make transitions onto your heel side faster and more effortless.
I love the fish design and am inspired by people who are pushing the limits of the design. Daniel Thompson is one of those people. Tomos Hydrofoil range caught my eye years back. I really wanted to get my hands on one but never did. Around the time I was shaping the board, I was on Tomo’s website looking at the Hydrofoils. I noticed that if you combined the jet tail and raptor tail it made a nice clean asymmetrical tail. So I decided to go with it. I originally cut the template out with a full length nose. The board was like 5’10″ on the toe side and 5’7″ on the heel. After seeing some Tyler Warren and Ryan Burch’s new shapes I decided to hack off the nose, but keep the same general outline. After all was said and done she came out to 5’61/2″ / 5’4″ x 191/2″ x 21/4″. I though it was gonna paddle like shit, but it paddles like it’s a 5’10″. It just doesn’t have the unnecessary length and weight.
The first session on the board I have never felt more like a grom. I had an ear to ear grin the entire session. I didn’t even care if the board worked considering how bizarre it looks. I was just stoked that I was riding a board my hands shaped. The board ended up working. It had a lot of drive because of the straight outline on the toe side rail and transitioning onto the heel side was so quick and effortless. I have not felt an easier transition from toe side rail to heel side rail. I have ridden the board about 6 times now and every session feels like I have it more dialed. This video is from the second session on her. Surf was pretty small, but I still had that ear to ear grin. Here is the video. Enjoy : )