Packing your surfboard travel bag is an art. I’m not really sure how airlines manage to ding boards the way they do, but I’m pretty sure the ground crew gets pay raises for jamming blunt objects into surfer’s boardbags. Getting on the plane with the unknown of whether or not you’ll open your travel bag to freshly dinged boards is an unavoidable thought process for every traveling surfer.

Add in the ridiculous baggage fees airlines are imposing these days, along with the tanking American dollar that declines in value as it’s sitting in your wallet, and you’re arriving to your favorite surf destination with a sour taste in your mouth… And you’re not even out of the airport yet!

Not a good way to start a surf trip. The last thing you wanna do is spend time fixing dings in your board when you know you could have packed your boardbag better.

Reference the opening scene of Ace Ventura: Pet Detective for a visual of the way your boards will probably get treated once you check them in. (general idea)

Have no fear, South Coast has your back. Now view how we can all pack our surfboards for maximum protection against Ace and his co-workers:

By Robb Bailey

If you’re just learning to surf, the kind of board you use is second to learning the ins and outs of the sport. At South Coast Surf Shops we get a lot of beginners looking to purchase the right surfboard straight away, with no real experience in the water. The best approach is to get your feet wet before you pull out your credit card, using as many surfboard types as you can in order to learn what your style preference is.

If you can ride a handful of demo boards or borrowed boards before you buy, all the better. Once you’ve gotten a handle on the sport and the handling abilities of different surfboards on a wave, you will come to understand the art of choosing your perfect surfboard. Then you can make the investment of buying a surfboard that you can be happy riding every day.

First things first: be sure to start learning with a bigger board. Most beginners learn how to surf on a long board, a board that is at least nine feet long. Any board longer than nine feet will be much easier to learn on because it will be much more comfortable to lie down on, much faster to paddle out to the break, and much easier to catch a wave. With time, practice, and patience, you will be standing up on your long board and catching waves in no time. At that point, you may consider a smaller board.

Let’s talk a bit more about the advantages of the long board. The factors that allow you to catch a wave are the size of the wave, the velocity of the wave, and the quality of your board. The key for beginners is to not get a board that is too short or too narrow. You will be much happier starting out on a long, wide board, as you will catch more waves and get more practice standing up. You’ll have far less inclination to lug a heavy board around with you, so find a board that is light enough to carry around. The thickness of the board doesn’t matter as much, but try to get a board that will fit comfortably under your arm or one that you can actually carry for at least two blocks.

As a general rule of thumb, you don’t want a board that seems discolored or overly worn or tired. You want a board that still has a little life in it and you shouldn’t be afraid to ding it up a bit. Beginners definitely shouldn’t buy new boards. The ideal situation for beginning surfers would be to borrow a board from a friend, buy a used board, or purchase a long-term (seasonal) rental. Don’t worry about buying something fancy. Just get something that will get you in the water, keep you coming back for more, and will stand the test of time.

Short-boarding beginners might prefer a “fish,” which tends to be short (about six to seven feet in length) and wide (about 20 inches). Fish-shaped boards provide a little more float for the rider, which is a help to beginning surfers. Fish-shaped boards may be a little harder to turn and duck dive, but they will help you get the feel of short boarding and provide enough confidence for you to continue learning. As is the case with beginner long boards, your beginner short board should also be newer (10 years old at most) and should not have dings, holes, bumps, or bruises.

If you have a decent budget, you could opt for the practically indestructible epoxy board. Epoxy boards, as opposed to cheaper fiberglass boards, last longer and are machine made. They’re good for beginners because they don’t ding as easily (and, as a beginner, you will find that your board is difficult to carry without bumping into things).

Finally, if you don’t feel completely comfortable on the board, don’t worry too much―you’ll get used to it. Get something decent enough to keep you paddling out for a year and trade up for a better, faster board when you’re ready.

To demo surfboards before you buy, or view our entire surfboard inventory, visit any of our 5 South Coast Surf Shop locations.

By Robb Bailey

Surf wax was designed to make the top surface of surfboards tacky. Although wax is a great way to keep the deck of a surfboard stickified, maintenance is a bit of a task (lazy surfers, right?). Wax requires constant re-application, and after a few sessions in the water it’s usually time to strip the old stuff off and start fresh. A more permanent solution is available with the use of deck grip.

Using deck grip or surf wax on a surfboard are equally effective methods to getting the tacky factor that surfers look for. In fact, most shortboarders use a traction pad for their rear foot and wax for the chest/front foot area, utilizing a combination of both. But there really is no “correct” or “right” way to get your board set up. It’s a personal choice, and every surfer will choose a slightly different setup depending on preference.

Traction pads and deck grip are used as a semi-permanent replacement for surf wax on surfboards. The purpose is to provide a non-slip surface and help keep the surfer’s feet firmly on the deck of the board. Made of a poly foam with some type of glue adhesive, deck grip us usually applied near the tail of the surfboard to provide more traction, stability, and friction against the surfer’s rear foot. Some grip is designed to be placed farther up the deck for longboards, but in general when surfers refer to Traction pads, they are referring to the grip piece that is near the tail of the board.

With shortboarders in particular, some of the more advanced maneuvers are enhanced by the use of traction pads. Aerials, tailslides, shove-its are examples of tricks that require significant use of the rear foot. Providing a surface to push against, traction pads have a kicktail (similar to the tail of a skateboard), which is made of a small block of foam attached to the rear edge of the tailpad.

Shortboard tricks warrant the need for more traction in comparison to doing something like tube riding at Pipeline — or longboarding at a mellow pointbreak — where the surfer’s weight is a little more evenly distributed on both feet while riding. In a case where a surfer may be tube riding or nose riding all day long, the need for a traction pad is almost none since that surfer may go the whole day without carving a single turn. Wax would be sufficient for rear-foot traction in this case.

Selecting the Right Surfboard Leash

By Robb Bailey

Although often overlooked, matching the right surfboard leash with the day’s conditions and environment can make or break your session.

The purpose of a surfboard leash is two-fold:

1. To keep the board from getting washed into shore.
2. To keep the board from possibly injuring someone else.

Most surfers stick to one type of board and leash setup for everyday use. For the most part, one type of leash will do just fine. But the leash you use to surf a California beach break in 2-3 foot conditions is not the same leash you would use to surf 8-10 foot island waves with a reef below.

Different surfing conditions, surf locations, and board sizes will determine what leash to choose. Here are the general features that determine what type of leash to select:

1. Leash length: Most glaringly obvious, the length of the leash is the distance between the ankle strap and the rear attachment to the board. The longer the leash, the farther away the board is allowed to move from you during a wipeout.
2. Leash thickness: Waves are a powerful force, and your leash needs to be able to withstand some tugging on it. The thickness of the leash is determined by how big the board is and how big the waves are. Bigger board and bigger waves equal the need for a thicker leash.
3. Leash features: With features like a velcro pocket for an automobile key and a pull pin to release the chord from the ankle attachment in case of emergency, there are lots of useful options available on almost all leash sizes.

Selecting the Right Surfboard Leash

Although nothing about a leash will help anyone surf better, choosing the right equipment for surfing can make your surf session a better experience. Getting tangled in a poorly made leash while in the lineup certainly makes for a more frustrating session. It can also lead to more serious problems in the water. Using the right equipment can prevent injury and save someone’s life. Don’t get caught in a sticky situation!

Check out recommended leashes for the following board types and conditions:

Shortboards- For beginning shortboarders surfing a 5-6”+ board, a good rule of thumb is to use a 6″ leash (1/4′ thickness). Experienced shortboarders can use a 5″ Comp leash (3/16′ thickness).

Funboards/Hybrids- Any type of surfboard in the 7-9″ range warrants a longer leash to keep the board a little farther away during a wipeout. Grab a 7-8″ leash (1/4′ thickness) for this sized board.

Longboards- Longboards range anywhere from 9-12″, and a longer leash is a must if planning to walk the nose of the board. A 9-10″ leash should do the trick. Get a Calf leash if walking the nose, get an ankle leash if the plan is to be fairly stationary after standing up.

Big Wave conditions- Surfing bigger waves means switching to a thicker leash. Thicker leashes are made in all lengths to accommodate more forceful swells. Get a leash that has at least a 3/8′ thick chord.

Island Wave conditions- Most island waves are reef breaks. The last thing a surfer needs is to have a leash snagged in the reef during a session. Floating leashes come in all lengths, and have hollow cores to keep the reef from grabbing at the leash while you’re bobbing around.

Lastly, look for a surfboard leash that comes with double swivel hinges. One hinge is located on the ankle strap, and the other one is on the surfboard strap. Some cheaper leashes don’t have this feature, but any quality surfboard leash will have brass swivels on each end to prevent the chord from getting twisted up while surfing. Swivels are just one of the many things to consider when buying a surfboard leash.

Need the right leash? South Coast carries FCS and Dakine surf accessories.

Selecting the Right Surfboard Leash